In a dramatically smaller show than usual, one that had Kanye West sitting second row, one of fashion’s most revered, Rei Kawakubo, showed her Fall Comme des Garcons collection to a captivated group. The designer took her scissors skillfully to standard silhouettes, resulting in pinafore-esque jackets and half-finished tailoring. Nothing was as it seemed with looks cut in half, coats that were actually capes, and a hefty dose of ruching and ruffles.
This is the type of collection that people come to Paris to see; it typified the trends of the season with strong outerwear and artisanal patchworking but was still strikingly original and trademark of the idiosyncratic talent that is Kawakubo. The menswear influence was evident from the start but the standout looks were those that, sometimes heavy-handedly, were nipped, tucked, and knotted into something divine.
For those of us not brave enough to wear half of a jacquard blazer, the vintage printed dresses proved more wearable with the added texture of hidden ruching and tight ruffles. A peculiar finale of all gold looks reminded us that once we think we know where the brand is headed, we could still be surprised.
Photos: Vincenzo Grillo, IMAXtree