If you’re going to suffer a fall from grace, take notes from John Galliano. This is the way to stage your comeback. After four years in exile after being ousted at Christian Dior and his namesake label for an anti-Semitic rant in a Parisian cafe, the 54-year-old designer officially returned to the ranks today with his debut couture show for Maison Margiela, shown in London at tea time to about 100 guests, including longtime pal Kate Moss and fellow designers Alber Elbaz, Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin, Nicola Formachetti and Christopher Bailey.
From the get-go, Galliano came out swinging. The tightly-edited artisanal collection deftly combined the house’s deconstructed signature with his own penchant for theatrical storytelling. A knee-length fuchsia coat, festooned with a plastic mask on the bodice and transparent circular pockets at the hips, was a particular crowd-pleaser, receiving a showering of Instagram snaps. That little number was paired with latex tights and jaw-dropping, two-tone platforms that will be nearly impossible to get your hands on. From upcycled party dresses to minimalist suits to elaborate outerwear, Galliano kept the hits coming. But nothing could top the designer’s two masked characters for the finale — a decadently deconstructed zombie bride bejeweled within an inch of her life and a scarlet high priestess ready to waltz onto a battlefield. The resounding echo after the show was unanimous: Galliano is back.