After Giancarlo Giammetti let it slip that he wasn’t exactly a fan of the Spring 2010 Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri-designed Couture collection – which in his defense was more Herve Leger than anything one would associate with the couture house – all eyes have been on the designers and their attempt to lure a younger generation into turning to the famed house. Things haven’t gone very smoothly thus far in their attempts (Valentino Couture was notably absent on the Oscar red carpet). Perhaps that is why this season the duo opted to go for a more feminine look, complete with endless ruffles and touches of Valentino’s signature red.
Despite incorporating some of the house’s signatures into their collection (though bows were notably absent), this was by no means classic Valentino. The seeming simplicity, but underlying complexity of details like embroidery and feather work that defined the brand for so long were lacking in this collection that relied mostly on basic silhouettes, notably for the daywear that felt a bit repetitive.
Any Valentino clients who aren’t fans of ruffles will have a hard time picking their looks come fall, as ruffles made their way in droves onto nearly every look.
The ruffle-edged dress Chloe Sevigny wore to the Golden Globes this year was reinterpreted into a number of different day and night looks, including the finale – a ruffle-lined one shouldered red dress with ruffles across the chest and one shoulder (fiesta anyone?). Valentino Garavani had a knack for flattering a woman’s body, but one has to wonder how many women will find off the shoulder tiered ruffles flattering.
Without a doubt, this collection was a significant improvement for the design duo, who are still honing in on their take on the famed house. At least it seems that they’re on an upwards track.
Images courtesy of the Fashion Spot forums.